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Running a fridge or freezer on an inverter or solar

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Keeping food cold is one of the main reasons people buy backup power. Fridges and freezers are easier to run than their reputation suggests, but they have two quirks that catch people out.

A fridge doesn’t run all the time

A fridge’s compressor switches on and off to hold the temperature. It might draw 100–200 W while running, but only run for part of each hour. So its daily energy matters more than its wattage.

The easiest way to find it:

Older fridges and chest freezers in hot rooms can use much more than their label suggests. Measuring is worth it. See how to find your appliances’ watts.

The starting surge

When the compressor starts, it briefly draws several times its running power. Your inverter has to supply that surge on top of everything else running at the time. If the inverter is too small, or is a modified sine wave model, the fridge may fail to start, hum, or trip the inverter.

How long food stays safe without power

If the power goes out and you can’t run the fridge, keep the doors shut. The US Department of Agriculture’s food safety guidance says:

This matters for sizing: if your outages are usually short, a modest battery that runs the fridge for a few hours may be all you need.

Tips for running a fridge on backup power

  1. Keep it full. A full fridge or freezer holds its temperature better, so the compressor runs less. Bottles of water fill empty space.
  2. Give it air. Leave space behind and above it so it can shed heat, and keep the coils clean.
  3. Keep the door seals tight. A worn seal makes the compressor run far more.
  4. Set sensible temperatures: colder than necessary wastes energy.
  5. Put the fridge on its own circuit from the backup system, if your installer can, so it keeps running when heavy loads are switched off.

Add your fridge and freezer to the calculator, using your measured daily energy if you have it.